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秋游鲁班山

AnAutumnTourofLubanMountain

作者：令陆胤LingLuyin(Author)

翻译:祁峰TranslatedbyFengQi

鲁班山栈道BlankRoadAlongLubanMountain

鲁班山观景台ObservationToweronLubanMountain

诗意并非都在远方。不是身边缺少诗意的美景、生活和时光，而是缺少发现诗意的眼睛和发觉诗意的心灵。

Poetryisnotnecessarilyseenfaraway.Itismoreusualthatweareimpoverishedwithinsightforpoetrythanlackofscenery,lifeandtimes.

金秋十月，一行十余人，不顾骤雨初歇的天空仍然乌云徘徊，毅然来一场说走就走的采风之行，直奔天水市武山县鲁班沟。

InthegoldenautumnofOct,despitetheclosecloudsshortlyafteradownpour,we,acrowdofmorethen10,forartcollection,wereonthewaytoLubanMountainsituatedinWushancounty,Tianshuicity.

武山是个奇特的地方。也许是因为处于西秦岭北坡边缘与陇中黄土高原过渡地带的缘故吧，境内地形地貌可谓千奇百怪、丰富多彩。而位于榆盘乡的鲁班山、鲁班沟、鲁班峡，就因这独特的丹霞地貌，便有了著名的石窟文化艺术——水帘洞石窟群、鲁班山石窟群、光明寺石窟等。

WushanisapeculiarlandofopulentandvariablelandscapeprobablythankstoitslocationwhichisinthetransitionzonebetweenthenorthborderofWestQinlingMountainandtheMid-Long(陇,shortforgansuprovince)LoessPlateau.Thus,LubanMountain,locatedinYupantownship,justforitsuniqueDanxialandform,alongwithLubangutterandLubangorge,isendowedwithfamousGrottoculturalarts—WaterCurtainCaveGroups,LubanMountainCaveGroupsandGuangmingTempleCaveGroups.

鲁班山又名中峰山，是鲁班沟众多奇特沙砾岩形成的众山中的一座山峰，海拔米—米。坐落在武山县城东北20公里处的鲁班峡中，与遐迩闻名的水帘洞石窟并邻，与老君山以渭水南北相隔。清《宁远县志》载：“鲁班山，县北40里，俗传鲁班凿洞居此，有古寺及流泉。”山上面积并不大，但山峰峭立，四周峭壁悬崖，山势雄奇险峻，仅有一径可攀援而上，奇峰险峻，林幽寺隐，风光幻化旖旎，为武山北部名山，其上曾有众多庙宇，为武山著名寺庙之一，是古宁远八景之一。

Asoneofthemountainpeakswhichconstituteofmultiplegrotesquegritrocks,LubanMountainisalsonamedZhongfengMountain,withanaltitudeof1.6kmsto1.9kms.ThemountainissituatedinLubangorge20kmsawayfromthenortheastofthedowntownofWushancounty,adjacenttothewell-knownWaterCurtainCaveandseparatedfromtheWeiRiverbyLaojunMountainfromnorthtosouth.AsisrecordedinNingyuanCountyAnnals,“LubanMountain,whichis20kmsawayfromthenorthofWushancounty,wassaidwhereLubanlivedinacave.Thereareancienttemplesandfountainsinthemountain.”Despiteitssmallarea,themountainisprecipitouswitherectingpeaksandabruptcliffsaroundit.Thereisonlyoneruggedpathforpeopletoclimb.AsafamedmountaininthenorthofWushan,LubanMountainisrichinhermeticforestsandtemples.RenownedasoneofthemajoreightlandscapesoftheancientNingyuan,therewereoncemanytemplesinLubanMountain.

走进胜景峡谷，透过茂密的树丛，露出一线天色。这便是传说中鲁班用一把利斧将一座大山劈开的地方。这里崖壁升耸，峡壑险邃。由“鲁班试斧”“松林晓月”“仙人送子”“李白醉酒”“笔峰独秀”等25处景点组成，每处景点都幽深至极，各具特色，令人心旷神怡。生长在悬崖绝壁石缝中的白皮松更为出奇，有些枝干长得像长臂伸出丈把远；有些枝干卷曲拐扭甚至绕过旁的枝干斜刺往上长；有的倒悬下垂至数丈之外，在空中探头探脑的作态，有的树干挺拔扶摇直上，凌空展开它的绿臂，远眺像个美丽的姑娘，有自己独特的青春、秀丽、活泼。

Whilewalkingintothegorge,passingthroughthelushgroves,acreviceoftheskycameintoeyes.ThiswaswhereLubanhadslashedthemountainwithanedgyaxeinthelegend.Thegorgewassteepwithnicheserectingthere.Thelandscapetotallyconsistsof25scenicspotssuchas“Lubantryingaxe”,“Pinetreelookingupatthemoon”,“Celestialendowingsons”,“Libaigettingdrunk”and“spectacularsinglecliffypeak”,ofwhicheachspotstronglyamazedpeoplewiththeirdeepbutdifferentcharacters.Thewhite-skinpinetreesgrowinginthestonegapofthecliffwereparticularlymarvellous.Somebranchesofthemlookedlikelongarmsstretchingfar;Somecurlingandshapeless,evendetouringaroundnearbyonesandgrowingupinaleanshape;Somehangeddowntoalongdistance,posingwiththeirtryingheadsintheair;Someerectedupstraightly,withtheirgreenarmsprotrudingintothesky,andlookedafar,likebeautifulgirlswhohavetheirownsingularyouth,beautyandvigour.

登至高处，放眼远望，只见渭河蜿蜒前行，朵朵莲花般的群山，温顺地相遇在此山的四周，不但有“江流天地外，山色有无中”的诗情画意，而且亦有“会当凌绝顶，一览众山小”的美景。

Whileclimbingtoahigheraltitude,farinthedistance,therewastheWeiRiverzigzagging.Thelotus-likehillgroupsamenablyencounteredaroundLubanMountain,whichepitomizedthepoeticconceptionof“theriverflowingbeyondthehorizon,whilethemountainappearingfromillusion”,aswellasthebeautyofsceneryfeaturing“WhenshallIreachthetopandholdAllmountainsinasingleglance.”

继续前行，登上“驼群远行”的景点眺望，前面12条大小不等的山脉并立，层层云雾回环缠绕，阳光在远近的山峰、高低的云层上，涂上浓淡不等的光彩；近处蓝得透明，远一点灰得发黑。再过去向远望，便依次地由深灰、浅灰，而至只剩下一抹淡淡的青色，无不吸引游人的目光。

Lookingintothedistancefromthescenicspotof“camelgroupsexpedition”whilegroveling,erectingabreastbeforeyouwere12mountainsofdifferentsizes,whichweresurroundedbylayersofclouds.Thesunlight,settingonthefarandnearpeaksandthelowandhighcloudlayers,wasanointedwithdenseorthinglosses,whichlookedtransparentwithblueinanearsightandblackenedwithgrayindistance.Lookedinfurtherdistance,thelightsrangedfromdarkgraytolightgray,withatintofcyanleft,arrestingtourists’eyes.

一路走一路看，不一会儿就来到了牛粪沟。牛粪沟是鲁班沟诸沟中的一条，一出半下村左拐即是。这里有多少传奇故事尚且不知，然而，一进沟口的巨大石壁像长城般蔚为壮观，让人叹为观止。绝壁上深深浅浅的雨水冲蚀而成的窝窝，像石壁的一只只眼睛，静静地看着我们，也看着世间的沧桑变化。

Watchingwhilewewalking,herewewereinthedairymanureravine.AsoneoftheravinesinLubanGorge,itislocatedleftasideBanxiavillage.Althoughwedidn’tknowhowmanylegendstherewere,thehugestonewallatthegateofravinewasasspectacularastheGreatWall,somarvellous!Ditchesonthecliff,shapedbytheerosionofrainfall,deepornarrow,lookedlikeeyesofthestonewall,quietlygazingatus,aswellasthevariationoftheworldliness.

几个人登上小丘峰，跋涉者的背影在镜头里勾出一幅绝美的画面，像丝绸之路上的商旅或探险者，行走在神秘而充满希望的沙漠绿洲之上，没有山高我为峰的自豪，只有一种心胸豁然开朗的振奋和喜悦。同行友人用呼喊放飞心绪，用歌声抒发情愫，用镜头采撷美好的瞬间。

Whenafewmountedtothehill,thesightofthetrudgers’backsformedasplendiferouspicture,asifthetravelersoradventurersonthesilkroadparadinginamysteriousandhopefuloasis.It’snotaprideaftervanquishingaparamountmountain,butexcitementandgleeoftheexpansivenessinheart.Myfellowsventedtheirsentimentsbyhailingandsinging,capturingthewonderfulmomentwithcameras.

继续往沟里走，有羊群从对面欢快地蹦出，牧羊人没有吼粗犷苍远的歌声，可是羊群的欢舞足以填补这份遗憾。白色的绵羊、黄色的山羊、黑白两色奔跑的羊是此刻沟中最有活力和动感的灵物。沟中两旁都是岔沟，沟畔耸立皆为石峰，或形态怪异，或刀削斧劈，或相揖恭让，或挺胸对峙，难描难绘。千百植物各呈己态，蓑草凄迷，红柳叶黄，水灵木绽放出亮丽的红色，野高粱挂满了殷红的穗粒，紫色的花，绿色的草，以及叫不出名字的花草编织了一幅色彩斑斓的秋韵图。忽然，一声高亢悠扬的歌声从幽狭的石谷中荡出，顿时让沉寂的山沟热闹起来。

Whilegoingondeeperintotheravine,jumpedoutoftheoppositewithgaietyweretheflocksofsheep,fillingupthevoidoftheshepherd’sresoundingsingingofwaywardnesswithdouble-leghops.Atthemoment,themostvigorousandlovelycreaturesintheravinewerethewhitesheep,theyellowgoats,andthehappilyrunningonesinthehybridwhiteandblack.Acrosstheravinewerethedivergedgutters,anderectingbesidesitweretherockpeaks,whichwereenrichedwithgrotesquestructures.Somelookedslashedbyaxe,someseemedshowingrespecttoeachotherwhilesomeconfrontingagainstwithheadsuphigh,hardtoillustrate!Thousandsofplantswereflauntingtheirposturesrespectively.Wiltedgrassmoaningwithgrief,redwillowsswayingtheiryellowleaves,fairytreesshowingradiantred,andwildsorghumupholdingampleears.Acolourfulautumnpanoramawasweavedwithpurpleflowers,greengrasses,aswellasnamelessplants.Inasudden,asoaringandmelodioussingingpenetratedthequitegorge,immediatelyaddingasavourofbustlingtothesereneravine.

鲁班山观景台人流不断，呈现出一种清新亮丽的景致。鲁班雕像、大型浮雕、廊亭、步道以及景观树显示出一派新气象，连通水帘洞与鲁班沟的硬化道路和铺装一新的停车场，给观光赏景提供了极大便利。登临观景台，一睹鲁班山的雄姿丽景，一种震撼便漫过心头。众莲峰千姿百态的神韵尽收眼底。

No-stopinflowofvisitorstotheobservationtowerofLubanMountainformulatedaspectacularscenery.WhilethesculptureofLuban,thehugeembossments,Thepavilions,thefootpathandspecimentreesembodyinganovelatmosphere,thehardenedroadconnectingWaterCurtainCaveGroupsandLubangorge,alongwiththenewlypavedparking,greatlyfacilitatedsightseeing.SpectatingthegrandnessofLubanMountainontheobservationtower,asenseofthrillingvibratedinheart.Apanoramicviewofallpeakstookshape.

在观景台休息片刻后，经友人介绍，我们前往鲁班山石窟。石窟隐于悬崖茂林之中。被命名为鲁班山石窟群，为县级文物保护单位，与闻名遐迩的水帘洞石窟一箭之遥，因石窟开凿于主峰鲁班山故名。据考证，鲁班山石窟始建于北魏，经五代、唐、宋续建，元、明以后屡有兴废，清嘉庆年间修缮增建。有大小庙宇38座，东岭祖师殿、三官殿，南下则为瑶池，有五潭，潭之上菩萨龙神祠各三间。北崖凿石窟，前立通柱，上插挑檐，状若重阁，翠然若飞，气势壮观。西边洞窟有睡佛高枕甜眠，旁有药王诸仙洞。西峰为西方胜境，上有天爷庙，峰顶处有一砖塔。石窟由东向西渐次增大，面朝渭水，一字排列，通长百米。各窟面阔不均，由1米多至4米多；通高不等，由2米至3米多。石窟前临深渊，柱檐俱毁，门前仅容一人可行。壁画也难寻一处全迹，塑像仅存石胎四尊。虽然表层泥塑尽皆脱落，但是石胎造像形神俱佳，背光隐隐，色彩斑驳，依稀可见当年风采。

Afterashortrestattheobservationtower,onfriends’re